Casa Laurus Nobilis

Palermo is the most layered city in Sicily — Arab-Norman churches with red domes, the gilded Cappella Palatina, three historic street markets in Ballarò, Capo and the Vucciria, and the street food that has made the city’s reputation. It rewards walking and patience in roughly equal measure. This is a straightforward one-bedroom for two with air conditioning, a washer and a workspace, centrally placed. At $119 a night it is the cheapest of our Sicilian city stays and sized honestly for a couple; Palermo is a city where paying more rarely buys a better experience, only a quieter street.